Cedar bird feeders have gotten complicated with all the dimension variations and “must include drainage holes” debates flying around. As someone who has built a few of these and watched which designs actually attract birds versus which ones just look good, I’ve learned what makes a cedar bird feeder work. Today, I’ll share everything I know.

Cedar Bird Feeder Plans: A Practical Guide

Materials and Tools Needed

• Cedar wood (1″x6″ and 1″x2″ planks)
• Saw (hand saw or power saw)
• Drill and drill bits
• 1-1/4″ wood screws
• Wood glue
• Medium-grit sandpaper
• Measuring tape
• Paint or wood stain (optional — cedar weathers naturally without any finish)
• Safety goggles and gloves

Choosing the Right Cedar

Western Red Cedar is the standard choice for outdoor bird feeders. It has natural aromatic oils that deter insects and resist rot, which is exactly what you want for a structure that lives outside year-round. Select straight, smooth planks — a few tight knots are fine, but boards with loose knots or checks aren’t worth working with for a small project like this. The wood should be genuinely dry before you cut; green cedar moves as it dries and joints you thought were tight won’t stay that way.

Cutting the Cedar Planks

• Base: 10″ x 8″
• Roof: Two pieces of 12″ x 8″ (overhanging roof provides rain protection)
• Sides: Two pieces of 8″ x 6″
• Front and Back: Two pieces with triangular tops (6″ base, 8″ height, peaked at top)

Measure twice, cut once — the usual advice applies here especially at the triangular tops, which need to match each other for the roof to sit right. Sand any rough cut edges before assembly; splinters from cedar are surprisingly unpleasant, and smooth edges prevent them from catching on the birds who land on the feeder.

Assembling the Base and Walls

Lay the base flat and attach the side planks upright using both wood glue and screws. Drill pilot holes before the screws — cedar splits more easily than you’d expect near edges. Each side should be flush with the base edges. I’m apparently a pilot-hole person for every screw I drive into cedar, and it works reliably for me while skipping that step never does on this species. Let the glue set a few minutes before moving to the front and back panels.

Attach the front and back planks so their triangular peaks align centrally. Check the structure for square before tightening anything fully — a feeder that’s out of square looks off and the roof won’t sit right.

Adding the Roof

Position the roof pieces with a slight overhang on each side for rain runoff. The A-frame structure formed by the triangular tops guides where the roof pieces sit. Secure each roof piece with glue and screws from above, checking that the overhang is symmetric. A roof that’s noticeably uneven catches the eye every time you look at the feeder.

Drilling Feeding Ports

On the front panel, drill small holes near the bottom to allow seed access. The hole size matters: large enough for seeds to dispense, small enough that you’re not just dumping your seed supply onto the ground in one rain event. Spacing the holes 1-2 inches apart balances access with supply conservation.

Finishing Touches

Sand the entire assembled structure to remove any remaining splinters and rough spots. Cedar weathers to an attractive silver-gray on its own — you don’t need to apply any finish at all if you want the natural look. If you do paint or stain, use an exterior product that specifies bird-safe formulation once cured. Let finish cure fully before deploying — fresh finish smell deters birds initially.

Installation and Maintenance

Mount in a location visible from a window but protected from heavy wind and direct predator access. Five to six feet off the ground on a pole, or suspended from a tree branch with enough clearance from trunks and other jumping-off points, discourages squirrels and cats. Clean out the interior with mild soap and water at the start of each season and inspect for structural wear. Cedar holds up well but an annual check catches small repairs before they become bigger problems.